Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Red River Gorge

I completely forgot to post about my trip to Red River Gorge, so here are some photos. I'm pretty awful at this blogging thing and at have a "social media presence." I'm not even sure that's the term.

We arrived very late but woke up to a beautiful view at the campground at Miguel's Pizza.

Ian climbed the 5.10 next to Deez Nuts which was retrobolted.

I led boilerplate which was probably one of the best 5.8s I'm ever climbed. Deez Nuts is also a solid route.

Ian attempted Flying-Serpents which had a sketchy finish. He ended up having to climb the first part three times. 

We got a group shot outside Miguel's Pizza before the drive home. 

BETABLOC

Hi everyone,

Starting tomorrow I'm going to be setting for the 1st Annual BETABLOC competition at the Worcester Polytechnic Institute CAVE. I'm so excited. I've been drooling over the climbing holds that we finally were able to buy and I'm psyched to use them. In addition, we got some sick volumes from Escape Climbing.

This comp feels like my baby. I did a lot of planning towards it. I somehow managed to get a great deal of sponsors, I picked out a bunch of climbing holds, I helped plan out where the volumes are going and what grades we're going to have.

I'm really excited to finally be allowed to set for a real comp at WPI. I have set for comps at WPI in the past, but they've been much more laid back and were only for freshmen to compete in. This is the first comp for all students that I've been allowed to set for. In the past, I haven't been allowed to set because if I did, we wouldn't have any girls competing in my category. It sucks that that's how that works, but we just don't have a lot of girls at a tech school, and there are even less female climbers. 

Anyway, enough of that. The problems are going to be sick. We got Scarabs and Minimeats from Teknik, Bladders from So Ill, and the Blockus 3XL from Rock Candy Holds. Since we're not separating men and women, the winning climbers will have to be well rounded climbers. I'll post updates as the days go by. 

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Head Setter

I'm super excited to tell you all that I have been announced Head Setter of the WPI CAVE. I'm the first person to hold this position and I'm looking forward to setting the bar high for future head setters.

Here are some of my plans and goals:

  • Improve consistency in grading
  • Organize more competitions
  • Professional development with setters
  • Reduce risks of injury
  • Fundraising for the CAVE

People who know me know I come up with ideas all the time, so stay tuned for more!

Thanks for reading!

Saturday, October 18, 2014

ROAD TRIP!

I will be going on a road trip for climbing purposes on Monday! I'm super psyched. I can't wait to tell you all about the trip once I get back.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

The Heist

The massive pile of holds and volumes

Setting

I arrived for the second day of setting really early. Flannery (Head Setter for the Heist) had texted me that setting was pushed back until about 9:30 am, but I was already up. I felt like getting to the gym early couldn't hurt. I could take pictures and start figuring out how hard or soft the routes might be. I actually hadn't realized that the grades up at that time hadn't been checked since they hadn't yet finished forerunning everything that had been set that day. I sat around taking random photos and tried to be somewhat artsy fartsy. I took a lot of photos until Shane (Head Setter for Central Rock Gyms) showed up and told me I could start setting if I wanted to. I got super excited about setting and I think I set 7 or 8 routes that day which is a bit more than I'm usually used to.

At the CAVE we can usually fit 20-30 routes, so resetting 8 routes is a huge change. For me, the setting process for the comp went as follows. First I set a bunch of things I thought would be really cool. Then, realizing the wall that I was on was really close to being done, I decided to finish it off. I realized later that I probably shouldn't have done that (it reduces the variety of routes in that wall area). I finished setting the rest of the routes on that wall on the second day I set which was actually the last day I put completely new stuff up. The last two days, Thursday and Friday, were mostly forerunning and tweaking. Despite my decision to set mostly in one specific portion of the wall, I actually did get to set a decent variety probably due to the number I bothered to set. 

I set Problem #1 the ladderiest ladder of all ladders. I hope everyone who climbed got up it if they wanted to because it was a 5.5 and my goal was to get everyone up it. We still called it a V0. I also set an actual V0 nearby it got slightly modified as I still have no idea how big kids are. I really need to work on that. In addition to that, I was able to set two V1s, one V2, two V3s, one V4, two V5s, and a V9 with help from Flannery and Shane. Unfortunately, the problem got broken by pretty much everyone in the open category.





Wait, wait, wait. I have one more awesome photo of the guys putting one of the huge volumes up for the finals route...and you have to see it. Shane and Matt look like mad scientists and it's great.



The Qualifying Round

Alex Puccio warming up on my V5.
I was so psyched to see people climb my routes. I stationed myself in the back figuring that the pros would get to my V9 pretty early on. I rushed back there early enough to get to see Alex Puccio warming up on my V5. I'm pretty proud of myself for setting a problem that she wanted to climb. I heard she climbed most of the problems that day just for fun, but it's still pretty cool that my route caught her eyes. Before the end of the qualifying round I got to ask Alex what she thought of my problem. Even though a lot of tweaking occurred from what I originally set, the idea was still there, but the holds were much better. I originally selected crimps for the whole route and that difficulty was described to me as what I would set if Paul Robinson wanted to climb something  really hard.

Here are some pictures of people climbing some of the routes I set. I'm going to assign them the following names though CRG may have since renamed them. Kale smoothie, Vanilla Frosting, Poppyseed Muffin. I may have been slightly hungry while naming them.

V5 - Green

V3 - White

V3 - Black
  

Here are some pictures of the some of the pros (Ashima and Delaney) climbing the hard stuff.

Finals

If you didn't know already, Ashima won. Also the point differences between each of the pros were crazy. Some of the differences were as little as ten points which is pretty much a single attempt. Here you go, enjoy some pictures. They let the setters get some awesome seats, so I took a lot of pictures. 

Meagan Martin on the first boulder of finals
Ashima Shiraishi destroying boulder #2 of finals
Alex, Ashima, Angie, Lizzie, Flannery
Angie on the Finals route
After the comp ended, I somehow convinced people to take a picture together. I really don't know how I ended up in the middle. Also I'd just like to note that after years of my relatives insisting that I pose for pictures, I do it pretty naturally..one leg straight, one leg slightly bent with one foot angled. I'm glad this picture worked out because at some point right before, I was convinced that photoshopping everyone in would be easier and probably funnier considering that I have no photoshop skillz.
Most of the Ladies of the Heist
I had an awesome time setting for the Heist and I hope to do it again next year. I hope all the ladies who competed had a fun time climbing the routes. Thank you to everyone who helped out, everyone who competed, and to Central Rock Gym for letting me help set for the comp in the first place.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Love Interest

Route Name: Love Interest
Grade: V1
Types of Holds: Jugs
Moves Incorporated: Match, Undercling, High Step

Ian didn't know what the beta to this route was either. A lot of new climbers struggled with the undercling while more experienced climbers would skip some holds.


Mr. Deeds' Foot

Route Name: Mr. Deed's Foot
Grade: V0
Types of Holds: Jugs
Moves Incorporated: Sidepull, Undercling, Mantle

This one is quick and easy. Have you seen the movie?

Green Thumbs

Route Name: Green Thumbs
Grade: V4
Types of Holds: Slopers, Pockets, Incut Edges
Moves Incorporated: Thumbdercling

This route shows how great slopers can be based on how you set them. Considering how many slopey routes I've had up recently, I know why I've been complaining about a lack of slopers to set with. I guess I'll be taking some routes down soon.

That Orange Fizzy Drink

Route Name: That Orange Fizzy Drink
Grade: V6
Types of Holds: Pinches, Slopers
Moves Incorporated: Lay back, Campus

I really like this route. The moves are a bit close to out of my reach, but it's definitely doable even for smaller climbers, which I am very proud of. The moves are somewhat balancey, but also require a reasonable amount of power even for taller climbers. Plus the orange holds stand out beautifully against the wall. I'd love to send this before it comes down.


Feeling Blue

Route Name: Feeling Blue
Grade: V3
Types of Holds: Slopers, Pinches
Moves Incorporated: Gaston, Mantle

This route isn't really stuffed with moves like some other's I have set, but it was definitely one of my favorites. I got my first opportunity to set something really balancey on this wall and it was tremendously fun. Plus, I'm really starting to love the slopers.

Friday, September 12, 2014

The Level 1 Clinic

Almost a whole month ago, I attended the USAC Level 1 Setting Clinic at the Edge at Halfmoon which was an awesome gym to climb and set at. There's loads of variety in wall angles -- from slab to a 45 degree overhang on the bouldering wall -- as well as some pretty cool features. I was definitely psyched to be able to set there.

I drove up the night before from about five hours away which was just over three times as long of a drive than I had ever driven before. I slept on the New York State Thruway which was surprisingly comfy. My Scion xD, which is an adorable car and definitely big enough to fit a 5'3" climber diagonally across the back was more comfortable than the mattress I'd slept on all summer.

V3 Youth B in Blue
The morning of the clinic I was so excited, that I woke up around 5:00 am and then convinced myself go back to sleep for another hour. I arrived at the gym by 7:00 am, remembered that most setters don't like to wake up that early and drove to the diner nearby. Breakfast was amazing. If a diner has rye bread, there is a good chance I will approve of them. I ordered more food than I needed, but enjoyed my hearty breakfast.

After the amazing breakfast, I headed back over to the gym. I took about ten minutes to park. I tried to back into a spot, but the lines were missing on one of the sides and it was a strugglefest. I eventually gave up and pulled through to the spot in front of me. Only one other person saw this occur while he was doing yoga. I gathered my setting stuff as well as everything I'd want for the day and put it in the bucket I borrowed from the CAVE as Molly Beard the instructor for the Level 1 Clinic drove in. I was psyched to meet her and eventually just dumped the majority of my food into my bucket so I could go inside and see the gym. I helped bring some of the holds out from under the wall although I had trouble since some of the buckets were probably heavier than me and that's saying something considering I'd been working in an office all summer and hadn't seen a full flight of stairs in months.

V1 Adult In Purple
Even though I had been to other setting clinics before, I definitely learned a lot. A lot of the setting clinics I had attended in the past didn't focus on setting for kids because at a college climbing wall, we don't really have to worry about setting for kids. I definitely learned the most when it came to setting for kids and was probably the most inspired when I was setting those routes. Kids might not have the core strength, but they're usually more fearless and more creative. It was cool to think about what they might try on a move to make it work. That day we set 5 problems. We set, foreran, and then stripped the first three then we set, foreran, and tweaked the last two. I set a V1 for adults and a V3 for Youth B.

5.10b Youth A in Yellow
I really enjoyed the setting pace. Even though I've been setting for three years, I'd only recently been able to work with other setters. At the bouldering wall at my school, it wasn't out of the ordinary to finish setting a problem after three days. We've since decided that that was unacceptable and unreasonable since our wall isn't even 16 feet high. I was really glad that in preparation for other clinics, I'd done things like set five routes at the same grade in different styles in under thirty minutes each with a little time for forerunning afterwards. I actually got to really enjoy the clinic rather than stress about finishing.

At the end of the day I hung around to talk with Molly about setting and to see people climb my problems. I was lucky enough to meet a girl in the Youth B category who was about to try out for the competitive team and needed to send a V3 to get on the team. I was psyched that I was able to put something together that she could enjoy. Before I had to leave, she had almost sent it, but she had gotten stuck just before the finish, trying to find her feet.

I met with Molly to discuss the possibility of mentorship with her. Thankfully she said, "yes," and I thanked her with a recipe for gluten free peanut butter cookies. That night I was lucky enough to be offered a couch to sleep on and dinner. I was very grateful and also still need to make that thank you card (I've been making thank you cards by hand which is super thoughtful, but takes a really long time and it often seems like I've forgotten). I have a growing list of why climbers are some of the best company.

The next day, we set a single route with a specific grade, category, and wall assigned to us. We also had to set with increasing difficulty. I had been assigned to the wall I asked for an was psyched mostly because I rarely ever get to set on such a slabby wall. To make the day even better, Molly surprised us with the new hold buckets from So Ill. I've been using mine since I got it.

I set a cool mantle towards the beginning which admittedly, isn't the easiest move to make when you should start around 5.8 or 5.9 at the start and hit 5.10b by the end, but it was too cool to pass up. Molly helped me force the move as I found that tall people could just stand up and hit the crimp. In the really slab section, I tried to use slopey crimps, but with the extra pull of the rope the route would've been 5.11 in that section, I got stuck using mini jugs, which ended up providing a good rest before the final wall section. Climbers cross for the 1st cheese wedge, reach for the second with their left, hit a jug with their right and then throw a heel over the second cheese wedge. The remaining section is pretty balancey, but very enjoyable.

The cheesy group photo
And the end we wrapped it up and I got the group together for a cheesy photo. You can see some of the guys holding their buckets up in the back. I really wanted to do a silly one, but people had to leave. I was so glad to be able to attend the clinic and to meet a bunch of cool setters. It was so cool getting to try different routes and to learn more about setting. I'm definitely planning on helping out with setting for more competitions especially youth competitions.

The next comp I'm setting for will be the Heist in two weeks and I'll definitely try to set some of the youth problems.

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Challenge of the Week #19

Today I was in the bathroom and inspiration struck me. Luckily, I wasn't on the toilet, I was just washing my hands (although I did feel incredibly smart about managing not to have to out any of my stuff directly on the floor -- I wedged my yoga mat between the bag hook and the stall wall).

Anyway, here is this week's challenge:

Pick your favorite room or any room you have access to. Play around with things in the room to get ideas for a route.

While the bathroom is not my favorite room (though it can be quite nice) the idea I got while washing my hands was left hand undercling, cross to the left with the right hand with an underclingy side pull to a far reach into a gaston with the left. These would be crimps and it would be on a vertical wall or slab.

Challenge of the Week # 20 - The Challenge of the Month

It's the 20th Challenge of the Week! Celebration must occur by having a challenge of the Month as a challenge of the week.

This challenge of the week can be a setting game for you and your setting buddies! It's a great way to learn how make small tweaks to change the difficulty of your routes.

Depending how often you set, this challenge/game can be run over a single week or multiple weeks.

Here's how it works:

Each person sets a V0. During the next scheduled set, instead of taking down the route, make as few changes as possible to increase the grade of the route by one. Keep repeating this procedure until you can no longer reasonably increase the grade (at some point, you'll have to change everything or maybe you'll have too many advanced routes. 

If you are playing it as a game, here is how points work:

You want to have as few points as possible. It's like golf, but more fun. Decide which grade you should all stop at before starting as well as how frequently you will make changes to increase the grade.  

Every new-ish set you are allowed to make one change without accumulating a point. Additional changes are scored as follows:

Rotations: 1 point
Moving or removing a hold: 2 points
Adding a hold: 3 points
Missing the grade: 5 points

If you want you can play for money or food or both. 

Tips: 

Use directional holds
Don't start a game with too many people or the balance of routes in your gym will get way off
Get feedback between each set from climbers
Because there will be similarities between each set, ask different people to try your routes. Muscle memory is a thing and it's important to make sure that routes aren't accidentally sandbagged. 

Alternate Versions:
Start at a high grade and go down to zero

Rotate Routes between setters so that you change a different route each week!


Happy Setting!

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Challenges of the Week #16, #17, #18

I missed a bunch. Let's get caught up:

#16 Take no more than 15 minutes to pick holds, set the route, and tape it. Hints: Monochromatic routes will allow to to only need to tape the start and finish. Try to use holds you are more familiar with.

#17 Set a route that does not require the use of holds that you need to set for the hands.

#18 Climb a tree and set a route based on the moves you used to climb the tree.

I'm back!

When I first started this blog, I really pushed myself to produce regular posts and be good about that, but between this being summer, the internet never working on Mondays and the event I've been planning for the WPI Outing Club, I just haven't really felt like the most important thing I needed to do was write another blog post, but a lot has happened this summer and I feel like I should catch everyone up.

  1. I started setting at Rock Spot every other week (except for this one because I'm sick).
    1. I set my first lead/top rope route and I got compliments on it.
    2. I set a second route and it's really hard for me to set an exciting 5.8 without a lot of holds
  2. Ian got me a crash pad for my birthday/graduation and I haven't gotten to use it. Lincoln Woods anyone?
  3. I just signed up for a Level 1 Clinic in NY I really really hope I can manage to pass. I think I can do it, but who knows what will happen. I am terrified. 
  4. I just bought an impact driver! FINALLY! I'm really excited and will probably devote an entire blog post to that an my other new setting tools! 
  5. I've been planning a month long event for the WPI Outing club and it's really very exciting. I hope it works out. I'm terrified that there won't be enough advertising. 
I will probably elaborate on all of these things separately, but for now I'm probably just going to continue to enjoy the summer. 



Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Awesome News

banner.pngI actually have a bunch of awesome news and I'm not sure which news to start with. I've known this news for a bit now, but I honestly couldn't believe either of the things that happened were "for realsies." I'm so glad to be able to share this with you all.


Awesome news # 1:
I've known this for about a month, but I finally feel like it's set in stone enough to say it in a more official way. I'M GOING TO SET FOR THE HEIST! I just got one more out of probably three or so emails and talks in person to confirm that I'll be setting for The Heist.

For those of you who didn't know, I got super serious about setting at the end of my Junior year of college. Over the summer with no gym to climb at, I spend my days training on rock rings and focusing on the movements I saw at climbing comps I watched on my computer. Side-note Psicocomp is extra inspirational when you're still loopy from getting your wisdom teeth out. When I found out about the Heist, I decided I was going to climb in it even though I really wanted to set for it. Over the last year, I've really pushed to hone my setting skills. I organized a bunch of setting clinics and practiced a lot over the year trying to set everything I could. I tackled my weaknesses as a setter and a climber and it's paying off. I'm really proud of myself. Ian's also really proud of me and I can tell because he told all of our friends that I was setting for The Heist even before I really believed it was official.


I'm not head setter or anything like that, I'm just volunteering, but I just know I'm going to get a lot out of it. I've never set with other female setters with significantly more experience than me - except for of course that time I started learning to set. Not only that, but this is the first time in my life that I can set for a group of people who aren't on average 6 feet tall. I'll be almost average height.

"AAAAAAAHHHH OH MY GOD OH MY GOD YAAAAAAAAAAAY!!! *HAPPY DANCE* ALL OF THE EXCITEMENT!"

I encourage all of the female climbers to compete in this comp. If you thought you knew how supportive climbers could be of each other even at comps, you'll be surprised. When I competed last year, I was floored by the amount of women cheering other people they didn't know that they were also competing against on. For the male climbers, if you're thinking, what is this? What is the point of this competition? Well, these things probably have not been an issue for you. I've had guy setters leave feet out because, "I wouldn't have been able to climb it anyway." If you're a male climber that already understands that these problems do exist, don't feel awkward about coming to support your female climbing buddies.

Awesome News # 2:

Two Fridays ago, I interviewed/tried out at rock spot in Kingston to be a setter. I set top rope and lead for the first time and I got the job! I'll be learning to set more routes and while I'm looking forward to setting some hard stuff, I definitely want to get better at setting fun easy routes. Sometimes a 5.7 is just kind of boring and straightforward, but I don't think it has to be. One of my routes the 5.10a on top rope/lead has gotten me a lot of compliments. I'll be putting the video up once I can edit it all together (it took my climber a few tries since the moves weren't always incredibly obvious).


Challenge of the Week #15

Go to the gym and watch some newer climbers climb. The "noobier" the better. Once you get an idea of the kinds of mistakes that new make, set a route that they won't be able to send without fixing those small mistakes, but still make it a route that any climber should be able to climb after a few helpful tips on the same day.

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Challenge of the Week #14

The latest challenge of the week is pretty cheesy, but here it is. Think of your greatest fear climbing related or just a general fear, set a route inspired by that fear and send it. So if you are afraid of bats, maybe do a bathang. If you are afraid of public speaking set a route where you must "face the crowd*." If you are afraid of failure set something you suck at and send it or deal with it. We all fail at some point. Face your fears, set epic routes and climb on!

Hopefully by the end of this week, I'll have a post about my interview at Rock Spot.

*Face the crowd is when the climber must face completely away from the wall (back to the wall). It probably has other names, but that's what I call it. 

Tuesday, June 17, 2014

Challenge of the Week #13

I was really excited about finally posting a Challenge of the Week on time and then I realized that I didn't have internet. So now I'm back and I have internet which really helps make blogging much easier.

The challenge of the week is to set a route based on a dance move or set of moves. I've got dibs on the Macarena, but there's plenty of other options like the YMCA, the Chicken Dance or Gangnam Style. Pull ideas from all sorts of styles, maybe the waltz reminds you of backsteps and drop knees.  Definitely post videos of this one! I'm really excited for this challenge.

In case you forgot how the macarena goes, here's a tutorial.
http://www.wikihow.com/Do-the-Macarena

Monday, June 2, 2014

Challenge of the Week #12

This is slightly different from most Challenge of the Week posts. You'll need some extra supplies for this one:

  • A bucket, bowl, hat or something else that you can put a bunch of index cards in
  • Colored Index cards cut in half
  • Markers, crayons, pens, or pencils
Once you've got those things start making some lists:

Setting Restrictions
  • No Slopers
  • No Jugs
  • No Pinches
  • For kids
  • For inflexible people
  • No Crimps
  • Static Only
  • Dynamic
  • Single Color

Moves
  • Heel Hook
  • Toe Hook
  • Match
  • Hand Foot Match
  • Downpull
  • Undercling
  • Side Pull 
  • Gaston
  • Mantle 
  • Dyno
  • Knee Bar
  • Face the Crowd
  • Bicycle
  • Toe Cam
  • Rose Move
  • Thumbdercling
  • 360
  • campus
  • compression
  • bat hang
  • drop
  • etc
Write those kinds of things on two different colors for index cards and put them in the hat. Whenever you need your own setting challenge, you can just pick one or two restrictions and one or two moves you need to force. 

Shane Messer

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Shane Doing a Heel Hook by GKWANPHOTO
I was lucky enough to have been able to interview Shane Messer the director of Route Setting and Climbing Team Operations at the Central Rock Gyms. He is very accomplished as a setter and as a coach having set as well as coached for National Competitions. During his almost eight years of Route Setting Shane has set thousands of routes and while talking to him, you can tell how he managed to do that - it's something he loves.


Shane held a clinic a CRG Watertown on May 24th and it was something I definitely had to attend. The clinic which was organized a little last minute brought in four participants including me. Shane's wife Melanie also joined in. If you've met Shane before, you know that in addition to being a great setter and a great coach, he is also an incredibly strong climber. In the first route, I set a crux much harder than I'd planned. If other people hadn't attempted it before him, I would have been convinced that it really was a V3 when I saw him climb it. He makes it look so easy. As a strong climber, Shane is planning to compete in the World Championship this October, but he's not just going for himself. As a dedicated coach, Shane is competing in order to be able to relate the competition and the pressure to the kids on the national team when they compete at the World Competition. In addition, he hopes to learn what the setting style is like since there is some overlap between setters and this could give the team a huge advantage.


Shane coaching CRG Nationals Training Camp by E. Varisco
After the clinic, I asked him a few questions, some pretty serious ones and one not so serious. Because I was cool and took notes with a pen and paper, below are the questions I asked with a summary of what Shane told me.


Q: What kinds of routes do you like?


A: Lately, steep walls with pretty good holds. Shane also expressed a great interest in slopers.


Q: How does setting for Competitions differ from the everyday setting at the gym?


A: Competitions are where climbers use their training. In addition, competitions bring a bigger audience and therefore it is important to set an exciting route. People want to see an exciting show during comps. It's really important to analyze the route that is being set and get as close to perfection as you can. You don't want everyone to top the route especially for finals. As an example, Shane had mentioned the finals for the Ring of Fire. The night before, a competitor had texted him telling to make the route really really hard, so Shane changed one of the last holds to a not great sloper and we didn't get to see anyone top the route. For everyday setting, people are here to climb and here to train, so you have to keep that in mind.


Q: What is a common mistake that setters make and should really try to avoid?


A: Shane emphasized this during the setting clinic and it is very important. There is a difference between holds for your right hand and holds for your left hand. Some holds can be comfortably used in either hand, but the asymmetrical holds are probably more comfortable in one hand or the other. Some people will argue that outside you have no choice, but since you do have a choice inside, you should set to make people climb comfortably because it will reduce the risk of injury by properly loading your fingers.


One more thing that setters should avoid is overthinking it. Don't constantly question if your route will work as you go along. Set the route, forerun the route and then tweak it as necessary.


Q: If you were to set a route based on a movie premise or plot what movie would it be and what would the route be like?


Shane looked like he was stumped on this one but he finally came up with a cool idea.


A: The route would be based on any of the Harry Potter movies. It would start out really fun, have an evil crux and a happy ending, but still be very consistent. A route based on the epic fight between Harry and Voldemort would be great.


So those were the questions and answers. I'll definitely come up with wackier, more exciting questions for next time I interview Shane. Loads of thanks to Shane for the awesome clinics as well as the interview and also to Melanie for the great restaurant suggestion. "There's dessert?" I asked, wide eyed. They had blondies drizzled with chocolate sauce and caramel sauce with whipped cream on top.


If you'd like to help send Shane to the World Competition you can follow this link: http://www.gofundme.com/90tpas

Thanks!

Monday, May 26, 2014

Update on New Routes

*This year, the WPI CAVE will be holding our second annual NSO (New Student Orientation) Competition for the NSO Olympics. It's a really exciting time, because it gives us the whole summer to set a bunch of really cool routes for the competition. Obviously, we don't take the whole summer setting a single route. We spend about as much time as we usually take to set routes for any other type of setting, but it's a lot more laid back. People aren't around as often and can't set a high volume of routes within a short period of time. The cool thing about this is that there's plenty of time to forerun routes and tweak them. 

Anyway, because the routes are going to be used for a competition, I can't put information online until after the competition which doesn't occur until late August. I'll try to keep the blog fun even if there won't be many setting videos. 

Challenge of the Week #11

Go to your favorite social media sites and pick one of your climbing buddies. Set a route for that climbing buddy. When you're setting the route, keep in mind what they've been projecting, what their strengths and weaknesses are as well as stuff they would enjoy climbing. Try to set something that will challenge them, but will also be fun for them.

This is a great challenge for newer setters who aren't used to setting for people other than themselves because you don't have to put as much emphasis on making this route accessible to all climbers.

If you want to challenge yourself even more, pick a climbing buddy that has a completely different body type and or style than you.

This challenge was inspired by the second setting challenge for Shane Messer's Setting Clinic at Central Rock Gym Watertown this past weekend.

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Pawtuckaway

Last last Monday (two Mondays ago), my friends and I went to Pawtuckaway State Park in New Hampshire. We spent our time in Boulder Natural trying out loads of different routes. I'd never been there before so it was definitely great to try all the new things.

Since we left pretty early for New Hampshire, we were able to explore pretty much all of Boulder Natural, but I didn't know it at the time. I wasn't sure how big the area was, so I kind of didn't know what I was climbing until I looked it up later. This was probably for the best because I probably would have been incredibly disheartened to find that routes that I couldn't flash as a warm up were V0s on Mountain Project. I had a feeling that the some of the routes got sandbagged or had changed a bit since the FA.





This is hobbit hole. It's a pretty cool route and it very highly rated. I was really hoping to flash it, but I think most other people were too. All of the hands are chalked up perfectly and in excess. There's really no need to chalk up for this route, unfortunately, it's popularity also means that a lot of the holds hands and feet are smooth. I was kind of disappointed to find that my hands would actually back down as I tried to go hand over hand.

You may be wondering why this final picture is here. It's mostly related to our unfortunate luck of finding that there was a gate blocking the road to the bouldering area, so we drove around it. On the way back, we had to drive around it again, so I got this poorly framed close up. 


Pawtuckaway was incredibly fun. I hope to go there again soon. The more I climb outside, the better I will get at it. I can't wait to go again there's definitely a lot of exploring that can still be done. 

Surviving College and Reminiscing

It's pretty much official. I survived college. Phew. While I don't think I ever really believed that I would take longer than 4 years to graduate, I did worry a bit that cold, winter day my freshman year that I stepped on the mythical seal of the WPI campus.

Those unfamiliar with the myth would probably like to know what I'm talking about, though you probably have an idea. The seal placed in the middle of our quadrangle is supposedly cursed. When it was installed in the early 1990s, a student tripped on it and did not graduate in time. Blaming the seal for his misfortune, he cursed the seal and anyone who dared to step on it. From then on, all WPI students walk around the seal to avoid its curse. In the 90's and early 00's, the method for breaking the curse was to have sex on the seal, but due to the heavy course loads associated with pretty much any WPI course, finding a private opportunity to have sex on the seal just wasn't possible. Graduation rates plummeted, but then stabilized as students realized the curse was a real deal. After months of work for an IQP to find a new way to break the curse on the WPI seal, there was a breakthrough. The IQP team realized that if you run and touch the goat statue -- which had been installed in the late 00's -- within thirty seconds, you can break the curse. One day, I hope that another IQP team will find the secret to completely breaking the curse. Not just at an individual level, but they must get to the root of the curse on the seal itself. Perhaps they will have to track down the student who cursed it in the first place. Perhaps he is long gone. Perhaps we will never know.

Three and a half years later and I'm a week away from the commencement ceremony planning a relaxing vacation at Rumney while putting off cleaning and emptying my room out. With classes being over, I did take some time to sleep, but my work is not done. I've been slowly catching up on the work I've been needing to do for my internship with Sol Power. I promised I would set V0-V8 in the CAVE, but I haven't finished yet. I've set 5 routes in just under 4 hours. If I could just get bigger block of time to set, I'd be able to set the remaining V2, V4, V6, and V8. I haven't been skipping certain grades on purpose, but when I wrote out the distribution list, I tried to space out the grades. The ladder ended up staying in the same place and 4 of the 5 routes I set were on the same wall. I'm definitely one of those people who uses vacations to get things done. I'm not sure what else I'd do, but I've definitely learned to get rest.

Earlier this semester, I burnt out. Burning out is totally a real thing. Here's how it started. I finished junior year strong. A few days of packing and a weekend of traveling later, I arrived at my first day of internship with sitting in the car being my vacation. Even if I am not driving, I have this tendency to scan the area looking for anything that could cause an accident. Things rarely show up, but it's good to be alert. I took a vacation during my internship for about two days in order to have my wisdom teeth taken out, but that was pretty draining. After my internship, I went straight back to school to start working on my MQP (senior year project). It was a really cool project, but it spilled over into the next semester. Coming into the spring, I was finishing up my MQP, and taking four graduate level classes. Not to long after I started to feel the burning out and it kind of just went from there. While I don't suggest just coasting during the final semester of your senior year, it just doesn't look good and if you don't take classes related to your major, you may forget things, if you know you have a big project like an MQP or a senior thesis or anything like that, it's totally acceptable to plan ahead and take a reduced course load just in case your project does spill over.

I've come a long way since my freshman year getting back into climbing and doing outdoorsy things. When I was younger, I was a girl scout, I made it to Junior status, but I never really got as much as I wanted out of it. I quit the summer between fifth and sixth grade and never really went hiking between then. Every once in a while I would go out to Rochester to go rock climbing at rock ventures. I actually wanted to compete, but I decided against it because I didn't want to injure my fingers since playing music was a huge part of my life. My freshman year, I went to the CAVE the first time. That was my first time ever bouldering. One time I made it up the overhung part of the wall. Just as I was about to grab the finish, I slipped and landed onto the mats from the top of the wall. That freaked me out for a bit and I stopped climbing. Over the summer, I decided that I was going to get better at climbing. I did pull ups mostly because I wasn't all that close to a climbing gym.

During my sophomore year, I got an email from some weird freshman through the Outing Club looking for people interested in going to Lincoln Woods. I replied back eagerly and got to climb outside for the first time. Being pretty new to bouldering, I didn't find much success climbing the routes. I was pretty scared of falling even though we had crash pads and climbing outside can seem really hard. It can be difficult to find holds outdoors when you don't really know what would be good. I got to know the weird freshman way better (we started dating) and my climbing really developed. I worked my way up to V2 and projecting V3/V4. In addition, I learned to lead climb for the first time. I also started setting for the first time. The route started with crossed hands and a layback to a rail. From there, you worked your way into standing up with a somewhat dynamic move to a sidepull, got your feet up and then finished the route. I was really proud of it.

Junior year got pretty busy for me. My main focus climbing wise was with my IQP (Interactive Qualifying Project - junior year project). My IQP was to create a climbing class at WPI. I worked with two other people, Ian and Mak. We were very successful and there will be a climbing class at WPI this fall. During our project, we created a curriculum, wrote out lesson plans and then tested it out on a bunch of newer climbers. It actually worked out really well because the newer climbers got to learn a lot about climbing and we got to clean up our plans and make them more reasonable.

During the summer, I got a pair of rock rings and kept up with general fitness. Coming into my senior year, without having climbed anything for almost three months, I showed up being able to climb most V3s. During my junior year, the grades got a bit stiffer in an effort to more closely match the difficulty of New England rock, so even though I hadn't nominally been improving grade wise, I had been getting stronger. I signed up for the Heist, trained for a month, and then somehow managed to come in third in the beginners category. I was pretty surprised by this since I had flashed 4/5 of my routes used for my score and none of the routes I climbed were in the beginner category. During my senior year, I worked really hard to be able to set lots of routes. I contacted Steve Wong about setting clinics for the CAVE. My climbing and my setting improved a lot. So did the overall setting of the CAVE.

Now that I'm graduating, I'm hoping to be able to keep setting at the CAVE and set at other gyms in the area for general resets and comps. My big mid term goal is to be able to set for the Heist. I've been practicing and focusing on my weaknesses in climbing and in setting. I've come a long way since my Freshman year, though I haven't grown (in height) at all.

Jenny

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Challenge of the Week # 10

For me, it's getting to that time of the term where there just aren't a lot of holds for me to use or at least holds I can use. One of the things we have yet to figure out is when we're going to wear through our bolts. We repair a lot of them by re-threading them (if that's not the right term, you probably know what I mean), but after many rounds especially during smaller rounds of stripping, it can be hard to tell right away how many bolts were lost to the wall. Anyway, enough complaining, sometimes you just have to deal with it.

So here's the challenge:

Have someone randomly select 10-15 holds for you. It's best if they have set before or else you might get a really weird assortment. While they are randomly selecting holds, decide upon a grade that you will set and stick to it. Once they give you the holds, use and many or as few as you want to set your route. Do your best to stick to the grade.

Good luck!

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Challenge of the Week #9

Sorry this is so late. I went climbing outdoors on Monday and when I got home, I ate a bunch of food and fell asleep.

This Challenge of the Week is to create a route inspired by an outdoor climbing problem. That's all. If you post a video of your route, don't forget to say what route it is inspired by and where you would find the route. If you haven't gone climbing outside, you should and then set a route!

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Challenge of the Week # 8

I recently heard the awesome name of a move I've thought was very cool for a while: the thumbdercling
A thumbdercling is a move that forces you to use your thumbs for an undercling rather than your other fingers.

Here's the challenge: Force at least one thumbdercling that will be use later in the route as an undercling. You must force the thumbercling such that it cannot be used as an undercling right away.

Go to it! I'll set again as soon as I have bolts to use...which I don't unfortunately. If you have questions about the challenge, comment below.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Interpretive Dance

Route Name: Interpretive Dance
Grade: V4
Types of Holds: Pinches, Slopers, Crimps
Moves Incorporated: Undercling, Rainbow, Gaston

I wanted to set this route to be a little bit more reachy so that I could force the rest of the climbers to do a move that I thought would be really cool, Unfortunately, because I'm so short, it is incredibly difficult to force a height dependent move that I can actually forerun. It is often a problem I have.

Watch the video and comment below.


Green Green Valley

Route Name: Green Green Valley
Grade: V2
Types of Holds: Pinches, Jugs, Slopers, Crimps, Pockets, Edges
Moves Incorporated: Match, Layback, Undercling

This was the other route I set for the Advanced Setting clinic. I tried really hard to make the route at V2 level, but with challenging beta and it seems like it worked out well. For a V2 climber, I was able to force a zig zag movement across the wall that increased the length of the route and made the beta more challenging.

Open Sunshine

Route name: Open Sunshine
Grade: V3
Types of Holds: Pinch, Pockets, Jugs, Crimps
Moves Incorporated: Layback, Heelhook, Undercling, Match, Butterfly, Rainbow

I set this route for the Advanced clinic. I definitely put my all into it. Actually I probably put half of my all into it because I was setting two routes at once, but you get the idea. This route turned out to be reasonably challenging, but is actually pretty fun.

In Limbo

Route Name: In Limbo
Grade: V4
Types of Holds: Slopers, Crimps, Slopey Crimps, Pinches
Moves Incorporated: Mantle, Bump, Match

I really like this route. It turned out really well after it started out being incredibly difficult. One of the great things about setting in the CAVE, is that there is no real official requirement for the grades that need to be set. I definitely wanted a route I could project, but I wasn't sure how hard I wanted it to be. V4 or V5 was pretty good for me.

Originally, the first move was to a really grippy, but not very positive sloper. This caused the route to be much harder and much more burly than I wanted. I changed the hold to a slopey crimp and the route became much more reasonable. I would definitely say that for newer climbers who are likely taller than me, but the crux is the back arch to get around the move from the starting hand to the crimp. Maintaining the opposition to stay on the wall can be really hard on this route.

The next move was supposed to be a bump to a far crimp, but that can actually be pretty difficult for short armed people. That move required me to stretch by my full wingspan. In the video, Ian manages to get the move, but when I sent it I used a slightly different beta.



My beta which you will see when I post of video of it requires the climber to wedge themselves between the boob and the a foot in order to bump the right hand up to the far crimp. Additionally the climber can mantle off the boob and rainbow with the right hand to avoid rainbowing later on.


Extended Basics with Steve Wong

Almost two weeks ago, Steve Wong came in to challenge 11 of our aspiring setters in the Extended Basics Clinic. The format of the clinic  focused around two setting competitions to inspire people to set exciting routes. Since this was a setting clinic I took the opportunity to try setting a type of move that I had never set before - a dyno.

I had recently been watching the ABS Nationals and many other comps online and I was definitely inspired to work towards being able to set solid dyno routes. Unfortunately, I definitely overestimated my potential ability to dyno -which I struggle with and I set a pretty hard dyno. I was pretty surprised by how hard a route can become when it is built around a dyno.

I wasn't able to get a video of anyone doing the route, but here is a picture of the route. The holds I used were blue and red.

The dyno was definitely the crux of the route. It forced the climber to dyno diagonally out from the corner. For climbers who like dynos and are good at them, they really liked it. For everyone else, it wasn't well liked though I got complaints that they couldn't static the route and that the holds were so far they had to dyno. I didn't win the first setting competition, but I did get to learn about setting a dyno. 

Ian came in Second place by setting a really cool route with a high hand foot match and a deadpoint from an undercling to a pinch. 

Sarah came in First place by setting a crimpy technical route with a dihedral mantle near the end. 

The second comp was equally exciting and a bit more challenging since we were provided less time to set. The route I set forced the climber to go directly over the boob. Unfortunately during the judging process, one of the climbers slipped and hit is head on the boob. After this, I think a lot of people were too scared to climb my route. After this, I named it Cuidado. This didn't win either, but received a better score than my first route as well as a higher place in the comp. 

Hristos came in 2nd place with a pretty reachy V4. The moves were cool though. 

Paul came in 1st place with an overhung V5. I wasn't able to send it, but the movements looked really cool. 

While I didn't win either of the competitions, I definitely challenged myself by trying to set something I had never set before in a style unfamiliar to me. I definitely learned a lot from the setting clinic and will learn how to tweak my routes more. 

Monday, April 7, 2014

Challenge of the Week #7

Set a route of any grade of your choice of 15 moves exactly that uses no downpulls.

Comment with links to videos of your routes below!

5 Onsight Routes for the Challenge of the Week

This week's challenge of the week was to set 5 routes, each with a different style all at the same grade. I took this opportunity to encourage all the climbers at the CAVE to treat them as on-sight practice routes. All of the routes would be completely new to each of the climbers and would only be up for the night. It was like a mini-competition against yourself to on-sight as many routes as possible.



I barely managed to set five routes. After the extended basics setting clinic from Sunday (which you will eventually be able to read about), there just were not enough bolts readily available. Finding footchips to use was incredibly difficult. We'll hopefully get more bolts of the reasonable length soon (we were seriously hoping for some huge holds -- we'll get them one day). After setting a bunch of routes with bolts that were just a bit too long, I managed to find enough time to finish a school related project and make comment sheets for climbers to fill out. I actually felt really successful, since I had gotten a bunch of people to fill stuff out until I realized that I had forgotten to take the pictures of the routes that had been up for less than a day. 

Since I forgot to take pictures, I have made color coded tables in order for this to be more visually appealing. It didn't work that well. 

Route Name: Red
Intended Grade: V2
Average Grade: V2 (Or a really hard V1)
Moves Incorporated: Lay Back, Rose, Match, Gaston
Types of Holds Used: Slopers, Crimps and Pinches

From memory, what I remember from this route is that the start is a layback into a large and slightly positive edge. From there, the climber does a rose move into another edge large enough to easily match on it gets a little ladder for about two holds and then it's a nice gaston to the top.


Route Name: Yellow
Intended Grade: V2
Average Grade: V2
Moves Incorporated: Bump, Deadpoint, Undercling
Types of Holds Used: Crimps, Jugs

My favorite part about this route is that I found an awesome jug that when flipped over made a decent crimp and could then be used as an undercling. A lot of bumps happened. 

Route Name: Green
Intended Grade: V2
Average Grade: V2 (Or another really hard V1)
Moves Incorporated: Cross, Lay Back
Types of Holds Used: Jugs and Positive Pinches

Except for the beginning the route focused on hand over hand laybacks while walking feet up the wall. The Beginning started with a slightly balancey cross that required a decent core. 

Route Name: Blue
Intended Grade: V2
Average Grade: V1
Moves Incorporated: Bump, Mantle, Cross
Types of Holds Used: Pinches, Jugs, Edges

The route started on the boob and I made it pretty easy for fear that edges may be too challenging. Unfortunately, this turned out in the average grade being a V1 and two people listing it as a V0. It can definitely be difficult to fit with the consensus. Sometimes when you forerun a route, it just feels like it is hard enough for a certain difficulty when it isn't. I definitely set the farthest away from the intended grade on this route. 

Route Name: Purple
Intended Grade: V2
Average Grade: V2
Moves Incorporated: Hand-Foot Match, Undercling
Types of Holds Used: Jugs

This route was very dynamic without forcing deadpoints or dynos. The same style holds that I used in purple penguin were used in this route. I really wanted to force heel hooks on these holds, but a lot of climbers in the CAVE borrow shoes and since they don't really size them correctly, we have a lot of shoes with squished heels that don't work for heel hooks. Instead, I ended up forcing a hand foot match at the start and a long move from an undercling. 

Overall, this was pretty successful. I hit the target grade for 4/5 of the problems and the grade for the 5th is debatable and easily adjustable by simply getting rid of a foot or moving it else where. Next time I do this, I will hopefully remember to take pictures.

Questions, comments, and other combinations of letters, spaces, and punctuation go below. 

Thursday, April 3, 2014

CUIDADO

Route Name: Cuidado!

Grade: V3/V4

Moves Incorporated: Heel Hook, Mantle, No Hands Rest, Cross, Lay Back

Types of Holds: Sloper, Crimps, Pinch

So I set this route for the extended basics clinic taught last Sunday by Steve Wong. It's mildly dangerous and it sketched loads of people out, so for that reason, I call it a success, but for actual it's pretty fun. It was slightly inspired by comp style slab routes that are pretty balancey, so I definitely had a fun time setting it.

The holds I used are all orange with orange tape. Since they are all pretty obvious, I won't do anything weird to the picture to highlight them.

This route challenges newer climbers with a pretty slopey start. It may not seem hat great, but once you get your foot on the huge footchip under the boob, you immediately realize how solid it is. It continues on with a bump for each hand to some crimps. You then bring your right foot up switch the heel hook to a toe and bump you left hand up to a pinch. From there you mantle off of the no shadow hand sloper and get the most amazing no hands rest -- you could stand there for days if you have nice friends to bring you food. The route so far has brought you over the most awkward part of the boob to climb -- the boobiest part of the boob. From here, you carefully lower yourself down to another great foot cross hands and lay back for the finish. I have to say the end was pretty scary. The left hand crimp is solid, but really only lets 1/4 to 1/3 of the pads of your fingers to hold on. You trust it, lean back, and reach for the finish. My hands were shaking as I reached for the end. I set an extra foot so climbers could adjust their hands to either climb back down or jump more easily.

Here's of video of me sending the route. You can totally notice my "jazz hands" as I reach for the finish.







Comments below!

Monday, March 31, 2014

Coming Up This Month

Here's a list of things I hope to have for this Month:

Awkward Core April

Extended Basics Clinic

Advanced Clinic

Outdoor Climbing for the First Time this Season

The Officer's Retreat at Zealand Falls

More Challenges of the Week

Challenge of the Week #6

So I fell asleep and missed the end of the day. While today is April Fools Day, this isn't a prank. Here's your Challenge of the Week from the awesome Steve Wong.

Set aside quite a bit of time for this one if you're new to setting.

Set five routes each with a different style at a grade two below your typical climbing grade (what you can on-sight 95% percent of the time) on the Hueco Scale. Set each route one after another.

For example:
Each route should have the grade V2 if you can climb V4.
a) Technical Slabby Stuff Crimps
b) Slabby Slopers
c) Dynamic Flat Wall stuff
d) Static Overhung
e) Dynamic Overhung

The closer your get to having the grade be V2 for each route, the better.

Try to select styles that are harder for you to set, though it's okay to practice what you already know.

Depending on the organization of your holds, take no more than 30 minutes to select the holds you will be using for your routes. Aim to set each route, tape, and chalk holds in less than 30 minutes. If you have a drill, you'll need less time. Forerun and tweak for an hour, then get feedback from other climbers. If you stick to the time constraints, this will take 4 hours. If you limit hold selection and setting to 15 minutes each you should be able to do this in 2.5 hours. Neither of the estimates include the time it takes to get feedback.

I definitely want to see if anyone does this and how it turns out. Setters comment below with your target grade then list the style you set for and what grade it turned out to be. Post links to videos of people climbing them if you have them.

Good luck!