CUIDADO

Route Name: Cuidado!

Grade: V3/V4

Moves Incorporated: Heel Hook, Mantle, No Hands Rest, Cross, Lay Back

Types of Holds: Sloper, Crimps, Pinch

So I set this route for the extended basics clinic taught last Sunday by Steve Wong. It's mildly dangerous and it sketched loads of people out, so for that reason, I call it a success, but for actual it's pretty fun. It was slightly inspired by comp style slab routes that are pretty balancey, so I definitely had a fun time setting it.

The holds I used are all orange with orange tape. Since they are all pretty obvious, I won't do anything weird to the picture to highlight them.

This route challenges newer climbers with a pretty slopey start. It may not seem hat great, but once you get your foot on the huge footchip under the boob, you immediately realize how solid it is. It continues on with a bump for each hand to some crimps. You then bring your right foot up switch the heel hook to a toe and bump you left hand up to a pinch. From there you mantle off of the no shadow hand sloper and get the most amazing no hands rest -- you could stand there for days if you have nice friends to bring you food. The route so far has brought you over the most awkward part of the boob to climb -- the boobiest part of the boob. From here, you carefully lower yourself down to another great foot cross hands and lay back for the finish. I have to say the end was pretty scary. The left hand crimp is solid, but really only lets 1/4 to 1/3 of the pads of your fingers to hold on. You trust it, lean back, and reach for the finish. My hands were shaking as I reached for the end. I set an extra foot so climbers could adjust their hands to either climb back down or jump more easily.

Here's of video of me sending the route. You can totally notice my "jazz hands" as I reach for the finish.







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