In Limbo

Route Name: In Limbo
Grade: V4
Types of Holds: Slopers, Crimps, Slopey Crimps, Pinches
Moves Incorporated: Mantle, Bump, Match

I really like this route. It turned out really well after it started out being incredibly difficult. One of the great things about setting in the CAVE, is that there is no real official requirement for the grades that need to be set. I definitely wanted a route I could project, but I wasn't sure how hard I wanted it to be. V4 or V5 was pretty good for me.

Originally, the first move was to a really grippy, but not very positive sloper. This caused the route to be much harder and much more burly than I wanted. I changed the hold to a slopey crimp and the route became much more reasonable. I would definitely say that for newer climbers who are likely taller than me, but the crux is the back arch to get around the move from the starting hand to the crimp. Maintaining the opposition to stay on the wall can be really hard on this route.

The next move was supposed to be a bump to a far crimp, but that can actually be pretty difficult for short armed people. That move required me to stretch by my full wingspan. In the video, Ian manages to get the move, but when I sent it I used a slightly different beta.



My beta which you will see when I post of video of it requires the climber to wedge themselves between the boob and the a foot in order to bump the right hand up to the far crimp. Additionally the climber can mantle off the boob and rainbow with the right hand to avoid rainbowing later on.