Monday, March 31, 2014

Challenge of the Week #6

So I fell asleep and missed the end of the day. While today is April Fools Day, this isn't a prank. Here's your Challenge of the Week from the awesome Steve Wong.

Set aside quite a bit of time for this one if you're new to setting.

Set five routes each with a different style at a grade two below your typical climbing grade (what you can on-sight 95% percent of the time) on the Hueco Scale. Set each route one after another.

For example:
Each route should have the grade V2 if you can climb V4.
a) Technical Slabby Stuff Crimps
b) Slabby Slopers
c) Dynamic Flat Wall stuff
d) Static Overhung
e) Dynamic Overhung

The closer your get to having the grade be V2 for each route, the better.

Try to select styles that are harder for you to set, though it's okay to practice what you already know.

Depending on the organization of your holds, take no more than 30 minutes to select the holds you will be using for your routes. Aim to set each route, tape, and chalk holds in less than 30 minutes. If you have a drill, you'll need less time. Forerun and tweak for an hour, then get feedback from other climbers. If you stick to the time constraints, this will take 4 hours. If you limit hold selection and setting to 15 minutes each you should be able to do this in 2.5 hours. Neither of the estimates include the time it takes to get feedback.

I definitely want to see if anyone does this and how it turns out. Setters comment below with your target grade then list the style you set for and what grade it turned out to be. Post links to videos of people climbing them if you have them.

Good luck!


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